A Gentleman's Guide to Looking Rakish

Rakish is a little undone. Its wind-blown and off-kilter with "a carefree unconventionality and disreputableness". Rakish is not messy, but it is not worried about tidy details. I will admit that I adore Rakish. I enjoy its mischievious and comfortable style.

To Look Rakish:
+ Start with a classy outfit
+ Don't worry about the details
+ Let the wind mess-up your hair and scarf
+ Dress with mischief in mind

Questions on Clothing and Spirituality

Throughout this month we will be discussing the spiritual significance of clothing. This discussion is, in reality, part of a much deeper discussion regarding the spiritual significance of all inanimate things- but I want to focus on clothing. Culture Keeper is not a blog about spirituality, nor is it an academic rant- but it is however dedicated to getting deep down at the roots of what we wear and why we wear it.

The Time for clothing yourself thoughtlessly is over. We are now in an age that demands of us all accountability for what we consume. This leads us into an even greater realm of discussion: the holistic idea that our spirituality is necessarily connected to the realms of social justice and the environment. Somehow what we put on each day is connected to the hands that made it and the mind that envisioned it, and the ground from which it grew.

Every day we select garments to put very close to our bodies- garments that we own for years. We wear clothing as a part of our existence, reflecting a bit of our inner world and belying our deepest beliefs.

In a few days Zach Stone will be writing about "Ownership and Memory". He shares great insight into the human experience and our spiritual connection to what we wear. Perhaps you have some insight too- some idea of how "what we wear" is connected to the deeper realm of "who we are". If so we would welcome any illumination.

What are your thoughts? let me know: grant.of.mishawaka@gmail.com

(image source: Michael Newsted)

Reading List #4

Insightful article from the New York Times on the rise of the "Man Bun".

Jason Hudson's Beautiful Blog must be read. do it. please.

My favorite place to find new art- The Artful Desperado. I especially loved the the Paper Works by Sarah Bridgland. (photo above)

The Fox is Black. inspiration for people who enjoy sound and color and... wait, is that you?

Galliano is the surprise favorite for me in next fall's menswear. Check out this behind the scenes look at his very 1930's runway collection.

I can't stop listening to this Loudon Wainwright classic- as covered by his son Rufus Wainwright.

Believe it or not, this vintage culture keeper post is the most commonly googled post on the blog.

Edward Gorey

Gorey was one of those incredibly rare creatures; an artist AND a writer. His hauntingly clever wit with both the pen and the brush is utterly immortal.

-Mab Graves

A Gentleman's Guide to Looking Dapper

People seem to abuse the word "dapper" quite a bit. I hear it applied nearly every day to things that are far from actually dapper. Here is some clarification. Dapper is a very specific thing. It means "Neat and trim" but also has the connotation of put-together, graceful and somewhat elegant. This word also bears a definition of "lively and brisk" which adds a bit of energy and eagerness.

To look dapper one must iron one's clothes, be well-groomed and sport elements of classic menswear. Ties, suits, suspenders, fedoras, etc.
Dapper today holds strongly to the classics.

To be dapper:
+ think "classic menswear"
+ put a spring in your step
+ listen to Fred Astaire
+ keep your look tidy and polished

(image source: Modern Hepburn)

Thrifting Confession: Karen Dickerson

"I simply love thrifting. The key to being a good thrifter is being able to see the potential of a garment. Do you know how to sew (or have a close friend who will do it for free)? You're well on your way to being a champion of consignment shopping. Of what I buy at a thrift store, probably 50% I wear as-is, and the other 50% I alter in some way. For the most part, I just look at the color, pattern, fabric type, and condition. Fit is usually secondary (although it is smart to try things on before you buy them). If something doesn't fit, I get out my sewing machine and make it fit! Something really important to look at is the fabric type. Keep in mind that synthetic fabrics hold in odors. Even though that beautiful jacket fits you perfectly and is in great condition, if it is polyester or acrylic and has a strong odor, it would probably be in your best interest to pass on that one.

I love the 50s silhouette, cinched waist and fuller skirt, so I buy a lot of vintage shirtwaist dresses at the thrift store. I can make them more modern several different ways: alter the sleeve length, change the buttons, alter the hem, pair with a cool belt. A few months ago, I was at Goodwill and I found an amazing mustard colored cotton blazer. I had to snatch it up immediately. It was a little plain-looking, so I took a bit of vintage lace my grandmother gave me and attached it to the pockets. It added the right bit of interest to keep it from looking boring. The blazer is actually my size, so I don't need to alter it in that way, but the shape is a little boxy, so I might put in some darts to add curve. Thrifting is definitely a great way to experiment with style. I recently found a pair of plum corduroy pants that were just my size. The fit was a bit old-fashioned (think baggy 90s mom jeans) so I altered them to a more modern style. I absolutely love them! I never thought I'd be one to wear plum pants, but I took a chance and was pleasantly surprised. They are cheerful and make me feel spunky when I wear them. :)

Don't restrict yourself to one section of the shop! Men might have a harder time with this, but if you're a woman, feel free to roam the whole store! Find your oversized cardigans, big button-down shirts, and boyfriend jeans in the men's section! If you have a small frame, you might have some success in the larger children's sizes. Also, sometimes people are sloppy shoppers and hang up their discarded items wherever they please, so something amazing may be tucked in between granny's teddy bear printed turtlenecks. Take your time. Enjoy the weird things you find, and keep your eyes peeled for a great new piece for your wardrobe.

My favorite thing about shopping second-hand is that I get to be creative and make up a style that is all my own without spending a ton of money! Have fun and don't take yourself or your style too seriously!"

-Karen Dickerson

Photo 1: paisley dress-thrifted/altered, men's chambray shirt-thrifted, belt-thrifted, hat-heirloom from great-grandfather

Photo 2: navy dress- hand-me-down, mustard blazer-thrifted/altered, slouchy cowboy boots-thrifted, headband-handmade

(follow Karen on Pinterest)

The Photography of Jason Hudson

I simply had to post Jason Hudson's recent lifestyle shoot with the most adorable family on earth. Read all about it Here. These folks are seriously cute.

My Style: Layers

I have a strong proclivity to over-layer. Or perhaps it is just the right amount of layering. Either way it appears a bit excessive. Therefore, as with most fashion topics I have made up a set of rules for myself .



Here are a few of my Layering Guidelines:

+Have an idea in mind
Pirates, Gandhi, Hippies, French Revolutionaries- they all layered. It is okay to have fun with your inspirations. I like to dress pretty extreme- and the people who inspire me are/were extreme too. I can wear an outfit inspired by T. E. Lawrence without actually dressing like him. That is were the creativity comes in.

+Think about your silhouette
You are not a Tele-tubby. please don't look like a rotund blob. If you are layering on top, try keeping it skinny on the bottom.

+ Control your colors
I like to keep my colors simple. I rarely wear fewer than three scarves at a time, and often more than one thin cardigan- so I try to keep things pretty muted and reserved in the color category. When you layer monochromatically you can wear whatever you want.

+Try not to look homeless
Even if you actually are, I would hope that you are clean and well-groomed. Getting crazy with layers leaves people with the idea that you perhaps cannot afford a jacket. Here is a good rule: if you are wearing more than one cardigan you should not wear fingerless gloves. Also- avoid standing near trash-can fires.


(image sources: A, B, C)

Thrifting Confession: Andrew Skipper

"As an antiques dealer, I frequent estate sales and flea markets. I don't ever go out looking for anything specific. If something catches my eye, I go for it. I have a great appreciation for things that are well made, and I've found that vintage pieces were made to last. When I find a piece, I think about the story behind it. Who wore this cardigan before me? What type of home did the owner of this bow tie live in? What dinner parties did this sport coat attend? For me, that's part of the fun of thrifting. I love to find things that speak to the past's sense of occasion such as bow ties, tie bars, fur, leather boots, and other unique accessories. They evoke a time when people dressed for dinner. In today's world, where we often see people wearing pajamas in public, I like to wear something that oozes luxury instead. Someone once told me to always keep your home a little bit neater than the homes of those you socialize with, your car a little bit cleaner than your friends', and dress a little bit better than the people you are with on a daily basis. By incorporating unique vintage pieces into your wardrobe, you'll definitely be setting yourself apart from the crowd."

-Andrew Skipper

(image source: The Free Agency)

Reading List #3

Insightful Interview with Simon Doonan on "why only dictators can look hip".

Recap of last week's Men's Fashion Week in Milan.

Post by Hannah Stone about her Parisian rooftop retreat.

Interesting short story by Antoine de Tyssandier d'Escous: "How I killed Karl Lagerfeld" (English version here).

Currently loving The Blue-Eyed Boy blog. Fave new blog find of the week.

Caitlin Jemison sent me this song by Lana Del Rey. I have to say, I cannot stop listening to it.

(image source: Blue-Eyed Boy)
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How to Dress well Without Wearing a Suit

You don't have to wear a suit again. Ever.
Seriously- it is completely possible to dress well without relying on the same uniform. Just use your classic suiting elements (trousers, jacket, vest) and mix them up. This image is a great example of how to dress up without actually wearing a suit:


To dress well without wearing a suit:
+ Simple color palette (gray, navy, and black are safe choices)
+ Bit of bright color (add ONE extra color)
+ Nicest shoes you own (they can dress-up the entire outfit)
+ Layers (vests, cardigans, etc.)
+ Suiting elements (blazer, trousers, pocket square)
+ Simple and clean (the slimmer the cut and crisper the lines- the better you will look)

(Image source: Fashiondes)

The Design Work of Ben Biondo

See more of Ben Biondo's work here.

Thrifting Confession: Tyler Grant

"I have long been a thrifter. I am in many ways a cheap person, though stores heralding “mega% off sales” fail to attract my attention. I love the serendipity of a thrift store. Shopping among others castoffs is like retail roulette and I’ve been addicted all my life. It began with hand-me-downs from my cousins, and before long I was more excited to select free things from a black trash bag then get gift certificates to the mall. Now it’s a way of life for me.

When I’m bored or just have time to kill I’ll stop by a shop. I may have something in mind that I would like to eventually purchase and if I find something that meets my specifications, I’ll get it. Since I’m not in a hurry, I often look over the entire store and leave with nothing, but I have acquired many items of décor and clothing I’ll probably have forever. Most of my favorite things were not bought in a hurry. My wardrobe has been assembled with leisure, and since I have time to carefully select what I want (and again, I’m cheap) I rarely regret a purchase.

If I am in a hurry, I know exactly what I’m looking for and need it now. I get tunnel vision. I have in my mind the precise sort of fugly 1970’s home furnishing for a White Elephant party at work, and only the best will do. In such times I can be in and out in 10 minutes.

My convictions where thrifting is concerned are . . .well . . .I have very few. I honestly have no limits as to what I will buy, and use, and enjoy, second- hand. If I’d buy it new, I usually prefer to buy it used. There is one great exception however. I have a difficult time finding used jeans and trousers that fit and look the way I want them to. As a result, I tend to thrift from the waist up. Though I may not have any other thifting standards, I’m picky ‘bout my pants. You gotta’ draw the line somewhere. " - Tyler Grant

(image source: sweetpaul blog)

Bryan+Mae+Ben

I love it when stylish and creative friends work together. Bryan and Mae are the cutest couple ever- and the photography they produce as a team is always stunning.

Here is a peek at Bryan + Mae's recent lifestyle shoot with the uber-stylish Ben Biondo.



Check out more of Bryan and Mae's Photography.

Check out Ben's Design Work.